THE LOOK: To capture a Coney Island moment for Derek Lam, makeup artist Tom Pecheux blended cotton candy—like stripes on eyes.
DIY: Pecheux says to apply a light layer of each color—orange, purple, and blue-green—with a brush: “It should be see-through.”
TRY WITH: Orange-red lips. McGrath paired lavender, peach, and icy- blue lids with a fiery-red mouth at Dior: “It’s fun to contrast a warm lip with cool tones on the eyes.”
THE LOOK: Models received an electric shock of color on their fingertips at Zac Posen, where manicurist Deborah Lippmann painted a hot melon shade onto nails.
DIY: Lippmann lightly buffed nails and chose an “extra glossy” topcoat for more reflection.
TRY WITH: White base coat. A coat of bright white under yellow polish at Rag & Bone gave nails a fluorescent glow.
THE LOOK: “Full lashes look too Barbie doll,” says makeup artist Tom Pecheux, who went mod when he sent models down the runway at YSL with strips of fragmented false lashes. For Louis Vuitton, McGrath layered multiple coats of two different CoverGirl mascaras to create intentionally clumped fringe. “Spidery lashes are irresistibly sexy and rebellious,” she says.
DIY: Pecheux trimmed a set of M.A.C lashes short and blunt, placing them only along models’ lower lashlines.
TRY WITH: White shadow. For Vuitton, triple coats of mascara gave lashes a batting average that could rival Derek Jeter’s, but it was the white shadow around the eyes that really made them stand out.
THE LOOK: At Nanette Lepore, makeup artist Polly Osmond, inspired by kids drawing with crayons, smudged turquoise pencil under eyes.
DIY: Forget about coloring inside the lines. “It’s supposed to be childlike,” Osmond says.
TRY WITH: Teal highlighter. At Balenciaga, P&G Global Creative Director McGrath traded traditional white for blue-green to brighten the inner corners of models’ eyes.
THE LOOK: “Blush adds life to the face,” says makeup artist Pat McGrath, who broke out the rouge backstage at Anna Sui.
DIY: Makeup artist James Kaliardos kept blush high on the cheekbones at DVF: “If it’s low on the face, it’s too old-fashioned.”
TRY WITH: Iridescence. “It brings out cheekbones and makes skin glisten, which is sexy,” Kaliardos says.