Modern military
"Military makes a victorious return. Practical but polished - aspire to clean-cut simplicity and forgo excessive frogging." - Emma Elwick.
Calling all glossy executive types: spring's military looks now kit out the working woman's wardrobe. MaxMara, Chloe, Stella McCartney and Celine all explored a wearable, womanly approach to military this season.
Candy floss
"It's time to bid a long-overdue farewell to black; this refreshing palette of pretty 'sweet shop' pastels sings spring." - Calgary Avansino.
Spring's procession of pastel tones - baby blue, pastel pink, pale yellow and softest lilac. Take your cue from Christopher Kane - whose inspirations ranged from Lolita to Nancy Reagan on the White House lawn - and marry your palette of sugary shades with thigh-high cuts and provocative splits.
Short order
"A summer essential - wear your shorts rolled up at the hem, with a slouchy T-shirt, blazer and rocking ankle boots" - Miranda Almond.
Perhaps it has something to do with last season's over-the-knee boots and decorative hosiery, but legs are still very much a talking point - with shorts now the best way to display them. At Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati presented a smart black leather pair, for the weekend, casual cuffed styles in white and safari hues proved a popular choice. Prada, Carolina Herrera, Rochas, Matthew Williamson and Valentino all showing ultra-short luxe styles.
Notice-me prints
"These prints are powerful shots of intense colour; offering a brilliant alternative to this season's pretty pastels and nudes." - Gillian Wilkins.
Peter Pilotto and Mary Katrantzou belong to a new generation of designers reared on computer graphics and X-box imagery.
Katrantzou was inspired by the lines of perfume bottles and Pilotto tweaked images of fireworks to come up with their extraordinary abstract effects.
Raw power
"The beauty of this trend is that it's only really noticeable when you get up close - it's then that you can see the exquisite fragility of the fabric" - Michelle Duguid.
Skirt that are ripped and peeld back as thought made from torn paper, slubbed-linen dresses that at firts glance look more like toiles - this is the back-to-basics route that many designers have taken this season. These are beautiful engineered pieces - see Prada, Bottega Venetta, Jil Sanders and Fendi.
xoxo,
susie
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